Secret Stash

“There are no cool people here,” Greg Ralph tells me as we ride the Pioneer lift at Monarch Mountain. It’s a clear Colorado day, a rarity at these typically cloud-cloaked elevations. Monarch’s base area sits at 10,790 feet, the highest in Colorado, and the near-constant cloud cover means near-constant snow. These slopes, which funnel down the east side of the Continental Divide, get plenty of powder—but “cool,” says Ralph, is in short supply.

Ralph is Monarch’s marketing director and one of its owners, so his candor is startling. But I quickly realize he’s bragging, not complaining.

Taking advantage of the day’s see-forever visibility, I notice that the skier zippering down the slope beneath us shows plenty of finesse, but isn’t sporting printed pants, sparkly goggles, or other badges of hipness. There’s a family riding the chair up ahead, and the mom’s dated ski duds—yes, those are stirrup pants—place her decades behind the beautiful people on parade at glitzier resorts like Vail and Aspen. Even the park rats lack the studied swagger common among jibbers.

Ralph’s right: I can’t locate a shred of affectation anywhere, but everyone seems to be having a grand time. Suddenly, I feel totally at home at Monarch. After all, I hail from Steamboat Springs, another comparatively uncool area. (Believe me: That’s not a complaint.) Steamboat gets 350 inches of snow annually, so I don’t need to travel far to find the good stuff. Why would I leave paradise in search of paradise? Because from this vantage point, on this day, Monarch Mountain seems about as good as it gets.

I’d heard tales of the mysterious “Monarch Cloud” that dumps snow—350 inches annually at Monarch Mountain, matching Steamboat’s total—even when the surrounding summits are clear. And I was aware that Monarch, settled into the Sawatch Range 20 miles from Salida, is small: Five lifts serve 800 acres, with a vertical drop of just more than 1,000 feet, hardly quad-torturing for any in-shape skier. No condos cluster around the base area; instead, there’s a parking lot, a lodge, and a tent that houses the ski school.

But Monarch’s terrain was still a bit of a mystery to me. A 2006 expansion opened Mirkwood Basin, a steep cirque of chutes and glades accessed only by hiking (which limits traffic and preserves untracked lines). The lift-served runs were supposedly untrammeled—located well off the I-70 corridor, Monarch was said to be refreshingly crowd-free. So one midwinter Friday, my husband, Ben, and I loaded our ski gear, and our three-month-old daughter, Simone, into the Subaru and pointed it south.

Although a handful of lodging options exist near the resort (Monarch Mountain Lodge and Monarch Cabins sit within four miles of the ski area), we stayed instead at the brand-new Hampton Inn in Salida, a riverside town that offers a broader array of dining options. Our room was huge, with enough floor space to keep us from tripping over our exploding duffels and let Simone roll around happily.

Saturday morning, we downed a hasty breakfast at the hotel and headed west to Monarch, joining a handful of other cars on the snaking route up U.S. Highway 50. We pulled right up to the lodge, unloaded our skis and Simone’s baby gear, and claimed a table next to the fireplace. Ben took the first parenting shift; I headed out to ski.

Despite the blazing sun, the air was nippy, so the five inches that fell overnight were still cold and fluffy when I boarded the lift with Ralph at 10:30 a.m. He steered me to Gunbarrel, an ungroomed black-diamond run along the ski area’s southern boundary that—amazingly—was still untracked. I wove through the spruces along Gunbarrel’s left edge, floating through silky, boot-deep snow. It was a short run, maybe 500 vertical feet, but the solitude made it magical.

Then we migrated to the Panorama lift and rode to 11,952 feet, where we were treated to spectacular views over both sides of the Continental Divide. Pikes Peak was just visible to the east, while to the west, chiseled peaks gave way to the flattened Uncompahgre Plateau. Some skiers head out of bounds here, dropping off Monarch’s back side and skinning back to the resort via the abandoned Monarch Pass roadbed. An expansion proposal aims to incorporate this stash, potentially adding 130 skiable acres and a new chairlift in No Name Bowl to create lift-served skiing on both sides of the Divide. U.S. Forest Service approval is pending, but the scenario already had me contemplating a return visit.

Until then, Mirkwood beckoned. After cruising down a nearly empty, groomed boulevard and saying goodbye to Ralph, I rode up the Breezeway lift alone and hiked for 15 minutes until I found myself atop Mirkwood Bowl, which remains liftless per locals’ preference (and the owners’ fondness for freshies). The gladed options seemed to stretch out forever, but only a few tracks sliced across the open runs, so I plunged over the cornice guarding the bowl.

Mirkwood feels more like backcountry than anything you’ll find within most resorts’ boundaries, and Monarch’s overall vibe is unpolished—in a good way. The proposed expansion to the resort’s terrain seems unlikely to change Monarch’s untamed character because its owners are ski fanatics, not developers. Its president, Rich Moorhead, started working at Monarch as a liftie in 1976. Mountain manager George Cowherd, a 30-year veteran, also started in lift ops. Still more Monarch owners have ties to the ski area that stretch back into the ’40s. Over the next five years, this management team plans to invest almost $9 million in improvements, including a new parking lot, an expanded base lodge, a magic carpet for the bunny hills, and a rebuilt Breezeway lift.

The upgrades will improve the ski experience without upping costs, since the resort expects the terrain expansion to increase skier numbers (while still providing enough elbow room to avoid a cramped atmosphere). Parking is free. Sack lunches are welcome. An adult day tickets costs $57; a season pass runs $339 and includes half-price tickets at Alta and free skiing at Telluride, Silverton, Ski Cooper, Sunlight, Revelstoke, and several other resorts.

Not surprisingly, families flock to Monarch. When I rejoin mine at the lodge, I see Ben chatting with a mom who abandoned her novel to cuddle with Simone. She explains that her table by the window lets her watch her youngest son navigate the beginner slope. Because all runs funnel into one base area, it’s easy for families to split up and regroup. “My older kids ride the whole mountain, but they end up right here after every run,” she tells us.

For lunch, Ben and I tote Simone into the Sidewinder Saloon, on the lodge’s upper level, where wood paneling and leaded glass separate the booths and a big, brass-trimmed bar dispenses drafts to about 20 drinkers. We claim a table and enjoy the cheery ambience while we wait for our meal. A cup of spicy, house-made green chile warms us before my Southwest salad and Ben’s BLT arrive. Then I man our parenting station by the lodge fireplace while Ben heads out to make turns of his own.

When the lifts stop at 4 p.m., we load up the wagon and enjoy a low-traffic drive to Salida for dinner at Laughing Ladies. It’s one of a number of attractive eateries in town, where in recent years artists have renovated historic buildings and established galleries that attracted even more boutiques and restaurants. The atmosphere at Laughing Ladies is lively yet relaxed; our server’s footsteps creak on the hardwood floor, and Simone enjoys gazing up at the embossed tin ceiling and paintings adorning the brick walls. Like Monarch Mountain, Laughing Ladies offers a good value, but the dining experience here is far more indulgent, which somehow seems appropriate after a day of no-frills skiing. Monarch’s unsophisticated setting is precisely what makes it cool—but, we decide as we savor bites of house-made lemon meringue pie, man need not live on powder alone.

~~ Curious about real estate in and around Salida, Colorado? Contact me, Hale, at hale@weshillrealestate or directly at 719.221.4637. I’ll be happy to show you around the town, and the slopes!

Yes, there is lots of awesome real estate available here in Salida, Colorado and, yes, I would be happy to help you find the house, acreage, business to make your dreams come true. That being said, there are lots of places with lots of desirable real estate, so, why Salida?

I confess that as I have lived consecutive years here in the mountains (and I live at 9,000′, so I do mean IN the mountains) something strange happens to me this time of year. I get passed the initial disappointment that comes with the colder weather, the end of raft season, the packing up of summer sundresses, the arrival of daylight savings time, and then, for lack of a better expression, I get stoked! I find myself, much like now, waiting with baited breath, for it to snow.

Every year it seems the excitement starts to build with the anticipation of Thanksgiving – a holiday, that for most of my adult life, has revolved more around bringing together friends, than blood relatives. This year, we received a lovely invitation to join friends in town for a Thanksgiving that featured a 30 lb turkey that they raised and slaughtered themselves. How cool and sustainable is that? And where did they raise their turkey? In their backyard in downtown Salida! Along with their chickens! And because it was their first turkey, they had a friend help them slaughter and prep the bird, and went as a family with their two young children to perform the task – which lead to many lovely moments over dinner where the hostess proudly referred to herself as, a Bird Slayer.

The day after Thanksgiving in Salida marks, The Annual Parade of Lights and Lighting of Christmas Mountain. This has to be one of the most charming, Norman-Rockwell-type, events in all of the 50 states. Historic Downtown Salida is closed off to cars and becomes a pedestrian and bicycle zone. The shops stay open late into the evening and host little soirees with steamed up windows, wine and cocoa. The taverns are rife with merry makers, groups of rogue santas wander the streets, dogs dressed as elves pass clusters of families caroling, “God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen”, and at some point “S” Mountain lights up and transforms into Christmas Mountain – the largest single Christmas ornament in, at least, the lower 48. The crowd cheers, a fireworks display to rival the Fourth of July spouts from the mountain top and lights the faces of enamored onlookers, and by the end of this evening I am ready for it to snow already! Why?

Thanksgiving weekend also marks the annual start of Monarch’s ski season on the Julian calendar, but not always on Mother Nature’s calendar. This year we’re in a holding pattern as we wait for that Monarch cloud do get hung up and give us the dump we need to get the season going; Monarch makes no snow, which makes for great riding and affordable lift tickets.

With ski season temporarily stalled out, and a series of uncompromisingly fair November days to bide, the trade off has been a week of mountain biking. (Terrible, I know.) This spring I traded in my cleats for flats, and my road bike for a 29er, and began riding trails from here to Utah. I’m still not huckin’ it for Santa, but I sure am having a good time on Salida’s Mountain Trails.

Lovely seasonal traditions, great skiing, awesome (sometimes year-round) mountain biking, affordable mountain town real estate, still looking for more reasons to call Salida home? Why not check out a couple of new and diverse culinary experiences around town. Little Cambodia, on F street between First and Sackett, and owned by the lovely Phanny Jones, a Cambodian native herself, serves up delicious Cambodian staples: Pho Soup, Bun Salads, spring rolls, house-made egg rolls, and tempting daily specials, Thursday – Monday. It’s become a local favorite for good, fresh food at lunch or dinner.

Had enough of buffalo burgers and brewery pizzas? Don’t get me wrong, I love these Colorado staples, but I also adore, SUSHI! I know what you’re thinking, sushi in a small mountain town in a land-locked state, right, how good could that be? Well, I’m here to tell you, it’s really good, and a phenomenal addition to our downtown dining options. Every Tuesday night, Currents Steak & Seafood, on F street in Historic Downtown, rolls up and dishes out a surprising assortment of rolls, nigiri and sashimi. From the tempura basked, to the Chef’s Choice sashimi platter, to the ever popular A-team roll, this sushi menu is solid, dependable, delicious. Have someone in your party who is not down with the raw fish? Added bonus, Currents runs their everyday grill side menu on Tuesday nights as well.

As you wander through downtown Salida you might hear one local say to the other, “How’s it going today?”, to which the other replies, “Just another day in paradise!”, or “Livin’ the dream!” When you’re ready to start livin’ the dream, give me a call, I’ll help you find a place to live and a whole lot more! Salida, Colorado – Because not all backyards are created equal.

Get in touch with my by email or phone: hale@weshillrealestate.com or 719-221-4637. You can also reach our office at 719-539-6616 and preview listings on our website at www.weshillrealestate.com.

If this sounds like you, I can help. Not only can I help you find that just right piece of real estate, I also work closely with architects and builders in the area, and can help you find a team to help make your dream home come true. Curious about property on the Arkansas River? Looking for stunning mountain views? Want 35 acres or more? Let’s talk! You can email me at Hale@WesHillRealEstate.com, or, since we’re going to be living in the same valley anyway, just pick up the phone and contact me directly at 719.221.4637.

Salida, Colorado – Because Not All Backyards Are Created Equal.

I took advantage of the slower shoulder season by heading to the Oregon Coast with, BC, my main squeeze, and my dogs, Poncha and Roscoe, for two weeks of fish killing. I admit, I had previously thought that fishing was, well, fishing: worm on a hook dropped beneath the dock reels up a bluegill. Turns out, I may have been wrong.

We drove from Salida, Colorado (where we had been frantically doing the requisite autumn chores: winterizing the boat, harvesting firewood, shutting down the greenhouse and outside water, finishing the garage addition, making sure the plow truck is in good working order, and so it goes) straight to the Pacific Ocean at Newport, Ore. – and instantly it was fantastic to be back on the coast.

In Colorado, deep freezers are generally full of elk, white tail, bear, antelope, beef – our goal: to fill ours with fish! An ex-commercial fisherman, BC is an experienced angler, both in the rivers and high lakes of Colorado, as well as on the ocean. Me, I was a bit nervous and excited as I stared down two weeks of firsts.

I experienced three very different fisheries: rock fish, tuna, salmon, and enjoyed them all. It helps that I don’t get seasick and inherently enjoy being out on the ocean. Previous to this trip I had mostly experienced ocean fish by way of SCUBA diving, as a fish viewer, but it was time to become a fish killer – a term I much prefer to fisher woman.

We fished rock fish mostly for weight, and to fuel BC’s Annual Fresh-From-The -Pacific-Coast-Mountain-Top-Fish-Taco Party, which is already scheduled for the coming weekend. Newport yielded mostly blacks and blues, while fishing further south in Bandon, Ore. brought more color with the arrival of coppers, quill backs, lingcod and GREEN lingcod. (The greens live in kelp beds and eat things that eat kelp, which renders their fillets green! A gentleman on the Bandon charter had a pack of green fillets in his freezer he is saving for St. Patrick’s Day. The trick is, they cook up ghost white… and are delicious.)

I had such a good time on these adventures, I instantly became curious about the, Captain’s Reel, 12 hr tuna fishing charter scheduled for the following week. Surprisingly late in the season, the tuna were still hanging out about 35 miles off shore and ocean conditions looked favorable. We were in! We got up at 4 am, made breakfast, packed lunch, walked the dogs, loaded up on coffee and headed down to the docks. As you might imagine, I was the only woman on the boat, which was otherwise filled with a few clients, plus off-duty deckhands and well-weathered career fisherman along for the ride. Yikes! Intimidation meter rising, and it didn’t help that the deckhand on duty, rather than calling me darlin‘ or hon or lady or miss, chose to refer to me as, sissy, for the next 12 hours. Sissy? Really, brah?

Turns out, a tuna boat is a wonderful bloody place  – rife with smack talking, cigarette smoke and fish stories. Because the albacore are such athletic fish the meat has to be cooled as soon as it gets into the boat: the fish are bled and put on ice, which means  when you really get into them, the deck goes blood red and morale sky rockets. We brought in 7 tuna between the two of us, or 80lbs of fillets.

Then we headed north to the Siletz River, which runs 67 miles through Oregon’s Coastal mountains to the Pacific. We were there for the Salmon Run. There are no hatcheries on the Siletz, which means all the fish caught are wild. It was my first time on a a boat often referred to as a ‘river sled’ and I was well-impressed with the versatility of the craft. For much of the morning we fished right in the mouth of the river, read: in the surf, as we waited for the rising tide to push the fish in. Here I caught two Coho, one a champ, both had to be released as the season was over a week ago. BC caught a gorgeous Chinook, and the hunt was on. We spent most of the day on the river, watching and hoping the rain would continue to hold off. We saw bald eagles, and seals (our competition) swimming upstream – how strange it is to sea a seal swimming in a river. Our guide was lovely and as we returned to the dock to cook up crab and fillet the two salmon we’d caught, he called out to well-known locals living along the riverfront, by name, and told them where the bite was on so that they might reel in a few themselves.

Aside from enjoying the fishing, I enjoyed the way of life that revolves around harvesting from the ocean and her rivers, the early mornings, the unmistakably hard work, the long hours, the good eats. In fact, I had such a good time that not only am I excited about the coming fishing season here in Colorado, I have begun to put together an all ladies tuna fishing trip with my best girls next August – that’s right brah! an entire boat filled with beer drinking, smack talking, sissies.

If you are thinking about buying a home, the time is NOW! Check these out: 40 year fixed: 4.25%, 30 year fixed: 3.75%, 15 year fixed: 3.00%.  Fore more information on how to take advantage of these rates by working with local lenders, or to start your housing search now, get in touch – I’d love to work with you!

Hale – 719.221.4637!

Many factors, from congressional approval for continued funding, to weather, to the limited number of Colorado contractors qualified to do this work, will play a role in the project completion date – which at this time is unknown, but could be as late as the coming spring. However, if contractors make the decision to begin right away, runway refurbishments could be completed by the end of October.

The improvements to the local airfield will hopefully spur more air traffic in the area and at other regional airports, like Buena Vista. The bird’s eye view is such a great way to take in the local geography, if you get a chance, hop on a flight and discover one more reason why you’ll want to call the Arkansas River Valley, “Home”.

This property had extensive planning for residential and commercial development. With its close proximity to the town of Buena Vista and long paved frontage road on Crossman Avenue (CR 350), this ranch makes a great investment for the future growth this area will likely see. The property will be offered in parcels, any combination and in its entirety.

Summer and winter sports activities are close at hand with Aspen 62 miles to the west, Copper Mountain, Vail and Breckenridge 58-78 miles to the north. Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area and the San Isabel National Forest are only minutes from this property. The unspoiled trout waters of Cottonwood Creek tumble through the meadows, cottonwood and aspen groves before spilling into the Arkansas River.

This ranch holds some of the most senior water rights in the region – dating back to the 1860′s. Lush meadows, fertile fields, two houses, long paved road frontage and 3/4 miles to downtown Buena Vista, make this an incredible investment opportunity.

If you are interested in bidding at the auction, we recommend you work with a broker actively licensed in the state of Colorado (o! wait, that’s me) and in order to participate you will need to properly register (I can help) by 12 noon on Sept. 29th. If you would like, previews and inspections can be arranged prior to auction. Need not be present to participate.

For more information on this incredible investment opportunity, and how to participate, please contact me at 719.221.4637 or send an email to hale@weshillrealestate.com.

Check out this affordable Arkansas Riverfront lot that I just listed today!! 4.2 acres on the Arkansas River and only 6 miles from the Salida town limits. This lot has it all! Trees, privacy, multiple building sites, easy river access, BIG WATER and BIG VIEWS. Offered at $225,000.

For more details or to schedule a showing, please contact me at 719.221.4637 or via email at Hale@WesHillRealEstate.com. Can’t wait to hear from you! This is the ONLY lot available in the desirable Cedargate subdivision and it won’t last long!!